Monday, December 30, 2013

Cape Cross Lodge - Skeleton Coast




From the bedroom I spot a sea bird.  Black.  Gull-like but not a gull. Soars the wind on the waves.  No flapping of wings.  Not a cormorant.  Too far away to make it out.

A jackal trots across the sand outside the dining room window.  It is wary though purposeful, stopping and looking behind every few metres.  Eventually it jumps down onto the beach, disappearing from view.

A string of cormorants head south along the coast.  Occasionally the whole flock, at least thirty birds, disappears behind the heavy Atlantic swell.


 ***

Sound of the sea all night.  Waves.  A constant rumble.  And wind.  It was hard to tell the difference as I lay awake in the darkness.

This morning the jackal trots back the other way as I watch foaming, raging breakers from the bedroom window.  It’s the same animal, with one floppy ear.  Returning from a night of raiding the seal colony.

Moist cool air.  A contrast from the hot dry interior.

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